What Does Surfing Mean To You?
What surfing means to me is very interesting I think. To start I grew up in Iowa, so pretty far from any coast and from any waves. I always knew of surfing, but not really. Subconsciously, I think I surfed in a past life or somehow knew my future, even my email as a child involved surfing. Once I moved to California when I was in the Navy, I was stationed in Coronado, Ca, so the ocean was literally my front yard. I watched people all the time, catching waves wiping out and so on. I did boogie board at one point, which didn’t last long. There was one day my buddy gave me a board to try out and I basically ran him over and we both about drowned that day.
It wasn’t until 15 years later I would take a trip to Bali, where I found myself in Uluwatu talking to a lady at the bar who had just come from Changgu, where I was headed to the next day. I asked for her surf instructors information and messaged him that night. I was lined up to surf with him the next day. I pretty much picked it up right away. The stoke was strong with this one, I thought. Once I flew home I decided 2020 would be my year and I would learn to surf… so I thought.
2020 came and I attempted on New Years Eve, not to surf but to make it out passed the break and watch the sunset. Thirty minutes of going nowhere I sat at the beach with a failed attempt to make it out. I watched the sunset in awe of those that were shredding it. Not to long after that the beaches were closed for months. Once they opened I asked one of my kickball friends if she could take me out when she goes and the rest is history. She introduced me to a few people and them to a few more, before long we had a solid surf group going out at all different times of the day.
It’s always humbling to be out there. No wave is the same, the conditions always change, the line up is always changing, and it is probably one of the most difficult sports there is. Despite how humbling it is, it is also one of the most amazing feelings once you can conquer it from time to time. You catch that one wave that inspires you. That one wave of the session, that wave that year, or that all time best wave you’ve ever ridden. Most importantly, its the memories with friends while your out there, the stories you have, and the smiles you take away from it. That is why I surf and that is why I like surfing with friends. Life’s fun, but way more fun with good company.
Cheers!
